| Commercial Salmon History
3000 Years of Heritage!
The Kenai Wild Alaskan Salmon Story
By: Elizabeth Chase, Historian/Kenai Wild Fisherman
Since the Dena'ina Indians began their annual
harvests over 3000 years ago, the return of Cook
Inlet salmon has played a major role in the survival
of the people who call the Kenai Peninsula their
home.
From the first European explorers of the region,
to the tourist who visit us today, not many go
away without encountering a salmon or taking a
memory picture of the pure untouched land that
produced it. John Muir's visit in 1890 described
an Alaskan stream this way: "As we neared
the mouth of the well-known salmon-stream where
we intended making our camp, we noticed jets and
flashes of silvery light caused by the startled
movement of the salmon that were on their way
to the spawning grounds.....The stream was so
filled with them there seemed to be more fish
than water in it, and we appeared to be sailing
in boiling, seething silver light marvelously
relieved in the jet darkness. A dozen fish were
caught in a few minutes...food to last a month
or two may be procured in less than half an hour
is a striking illustration of the fruitfulness
of these Alaskan waters."
Salmon, talk of salmon, and salmon fishing boats
are the most vivid impressions of a visit to Alaska
in addition to the staggering beauty of the land.
In almost every port, trollers, seiners, and gill-netters
crowd the waterfronts in summer. You cannot sail
in Alaskan waters anywhere during the summer without
encountering fishermen. Commercial fishing is
the number one private employer in the State.
In the month of July, when fishing is at its peak,
one out of every six working Kenai resident's
is employed in the fisheries. Salmon and the businesses
it supports is our mainstay and have been since
the time of the Dena'ina. Proper management of
this renewable resource is our collective responsibility
today so that generations to come can also benefit
from this pure resource far into the future. But
it has not always been so....
In 1867 the United States purchased the territory
of Alaska from Russia for 7.2 million dollars.
East and West coast fishermen had a strong lobby
in support of the purchase due to the declining
fish resource in the Atlantic and Pacific waters.
1872, five years later, the first salmon saltry
came to the Kenai River in Cook Inlet, officially
starting our commercial salmon industry. Ten years
later in 1882, Cook Inlet's first cannery was
built at the mouth of the Kasilof River by the
Alaska Packing Company of San Francisco, making
it the second cannery in the territory of Alaska.
The industry grew rapidly despite the remoteness
of the territory and the difficulty of transporting
supplies, workmen, and equipment by sea from Seattle,
Portland, or San Francisco.
Harvesting methods in those early days consisted
of sailboats with gill nets and beach seines.
In 1885, the trap method of harvesting salmon
came to Alaska with the construction of the first
stationary trap in Cook Inlet. Because of the
cost to construct the yearly traps, canneries
owned and operated them, leaving the independent
fisherman very little of the resource to make
it profitable. Before the end of the nineteenth
century the canning industry had become established,
luring many people who had made fortunes on rivers
now destroyed in the lower 48.
Packers from the Columbia River, Portland, Seattle,
San Francisco, Fraser River, Tacoma, and even
from Europe came because there were numerous rivers
capable of being tapped without restraint by government.
In 1889 there were thirty-seven canneries statewide
that produced 720,000 cases against a total of
478,000 cases in California, Oregon, and Washington
combined. A half-century later there were 156
canneries. Waste of fish was often enormous since
there was no limit on the number that could be
taken. When Congress passed a law in 1896 requiring
weekend closures, it was generally ignored. There
were very few government inspectors to execute
this or any other conservation legislation.
The exploitation of the salmon stocks had finally
had enough abuse, in 1936 an all time record harvest
was established in the territory of Alaska when
129 million fish were harvested and 8 million
cases produced. The runs began to decline, canneries
closed, and jobs were lost. Alaskans were ready
for a new page in their future.
The fate of the Alaska salmon fishery was associated
with the struggle of the people to gain control
of their resource. Large-scale corporate enterprise
used their political power to stop any controls
on their over harvest activities. J.P. Morgan-Guggenheim,
for example, which owned 12 canneries along with
other packers achieved their goals by persuading
congressmen either to kill fishery conservation
legislation or when such laws were passed to deny
appropriations for adequate enforcement. The history
of Alaska fishery administration before statehood
shows that the packers fought nearly every conservation
proposal submitted to the Congress and conceded
to compromise only after bitter struggles. Making
trap fishing in Alaska illegal became the unifying
force in the fight for Statehood. 1958 was the
last year traps were used.
In 1959, the people won their case making Alaska
the 49th State of the Union. After 87 years of
trap abuses by the canneries, salmon stocks struggled
to return to their healthy numbers. In 1961, President
Eisenhower declared the Alaska fisheries a national
disaster to financially help the struggling industry.
It was the first time in U.S. history that a declared
national disaster was man made. The newly formed
Alaska Department of Fish and Game had a huge
job ahead of it in managing the resource. In Cook
Inlet alone management is complex involving predictions
of how many adult salmon are likely to return
to spawn, deciding how many mature fish can be
harvested and how many must be allowed to escape
the nets to spawn, adopting regulations setting
fishing periods and limiting gear efficiency,
enforcing the regulations, and checking actual
escapement and spawning success.
After Alaska became a state regulations fell
into one of three categories; First, to provide
orderly fishing. Second, for conservation of the
resource. And third, to harvest for maximum sustained
yield. Which means not only protection from over
fishing, but prevention of under fishing insuring
our renewable resource for future generations.
By 1970, the runs had recovered but faced new
challenges. The population of Alaska was exploding
with the discovery of oil and anyone who could
buy a net and boat could commercially fish. In
1972, voters approved an amendment to the Alaska
constitution allowing the state to "limit
entry" into any fishery for purposes of resource
conservation, to prevent economic distress among
fishermen and those dependent upon them for a
livelihood and to promote the efficient development
of aqua culture in the state of Alaska. Today
in Cook Inlet there are only 756 set net fishermen
and 534 drift boat fishermen in the region.
Another problem facing the recovering fishery
was the high-sea intercept of foreign countries
that had no conservation concerns. They were allowed
to harvest salmon within 3 miles of Alaska's coastline.
Federal officials from the Department of State
ignored concerns until negotiations occurred at
the "Law of the Sea" Conference in 1975.
Other nations began to declare 200-mile limits.
More coastal states added their pressure for extended
U.S. Jurisdiction. In 1976 the Fisheries Conservation
and Management Act established an exclusive fisheries
management zone out to 200 nautical miles seaward
of the high tide line.
1980 saw historic runs of salmon with levels
never before seen in Cook Inlet. Japan was the
regions best customer, paying top dollar for Alaska
wild salmon. The technology for farmed Atlantic
salmon was in its infant stage at this time- a
fishery that fishermen thought would never become
a "Real Fishery" of any consequence.
In the late 90's fishermen were waking up to
the reality that commodity prices were at historic
lows and might never return to "normal"
as farmed salmon poured on the global markets.
Canneries were closing their doors, fishermen
began leaving the industry, and to cast insult
to injury, the 2000 harvest was the lowest Cook
Inlet had seen in 40 years. The industry was again
ready for a new chapter in its history.
After attending a seminar on regional branding
hosted by the World Trade Organization in December
of 2000, Kenai Peninsula Mayor, Dale Bagley, brought
the idea home and set to work. By February of
2001, the Mayor had an ordinance drafted to ask
the borough for $30,000 to do a feasibility study
for a branding program in Cook Inlet. The borough
assembly, with a unanimous yes vote, appropriated
the money. The Mayor then appointed Jack Brown,
Manager of the Kenai Peninsula Borough, Community
and Economic Development Division, to work on
the project.
Respected seafood consulting firm, Seafood Market
Developers (SMD), of Seattle, was hired in April
2001 to do the study. The study results were favorable
and a volunteer board of local fishermen, processors,
and borough appointed officials, lead by Mark
Powell of Alaska Salmon Purchasers, Inc., was
formed. August 16th 2001 was the boards first
meeting. The Kenai Peninsula's Borough Grants
Manager, Bonnie Golden and SMD applied for and
obtained a Salton-Stall Kenedy grant to begin
the project, so with funds in place everyone began
the enormous task to develop a domestic market
for our Cook Inlet salmon.
By February of 2002 all paperwork to become a
nonprofit organization was filed and accepted.
Cook Inlet Salmon Brand Inc. (CISB) trademarked
the brand name "Kenai Wild", a logo
was accepted, and labels were designed. "SureFish",
a third party seafood inspection company based
in Seattle, worked with Alaska Manufacturer's
Assocations to establish a quality program which
is now know as the Alaska Quality Seafood Program(AQS).
Surefish was contract to train local fishermen
in the new handling techniques which had to be
implemented to adhere to AQS and to train, inspect
and certified all of the programs "Kenai
Wild" fish.
July 2002, was our first year harvesting "Kenai
Wild" branded salmon. CISB's plan was to
be conservative, producing a low volume of salmon
so we could identify our weaknesses at all inspection
points. Out of 69,000 pounds delivered, 23,000
pounds were certified through the plants. With
that small volume, CISB was able to test its high
quality product in twenty-two markets in the USA.
There were 16 fishermen and 3 processors involved
in the "Branding" project.
2003, our second year of production, fishermen
delivered 216,000 round pounds into the program,
of which about 60 percent was certified "Kenai
Wild". The acceptance of 2 additional grades
to the program helped raise the percentage of
brandable fish. The three grades are Premium (Live
bled, iced at point of capture, fresh or once
frozen,) Choice and Select, (bled or unbled, iced
at point of capture, can be twice frozen). Orders
for our "Kenai Wild" branded salmon
outweigh our current ability to produce. The goals
for our 2003 season were to get as many fishermen
and plants "self certified" as possible,
increase production and get our business plan
written. 68 Fishermen and four processors trained
for the program and signed on for this season.
An Executive Director of CISB, Sylvia Beaudoin,
was hired in October after serving as Program
Manager since June of 2003.
Now in its third year, CISB has 85 fishermen
trained to program standards and 6 processors
signed on. Our business plan has been written
with a new marketing strategy that will take CISB
to a self-sustaining level in four more years.
The fall of 2004 will bring a time of reflection.
Time to hone our efforts and prepare for several
exciting new projects.CISB is proud to announce
that it is the recipient of a grant award for
icing infrastructure equipment, which will increase
available ice capacity to the areas commercial
fishers and community by at least 80 tons per
day. The equipment will be installed and ready
to go by the start of the 2005 fishing season.
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